Garage door opener repair in Plantation and Davie, FL
Motor humming, door stalling or remotes ignored? First we check whether the fault is the opener or the door it pulls. Your price arrives in writing first.
Usual visit: 1 to 2 hours (a new opener: about half a day)
Opener trouble usually sounds like this
- The motor hums or clicks, but the door doesn't budge.
- The motor whirs and the bulb glows, yet the door stays parked.
- The door starts up, stops partway and heads back down.
- The wall control opens it, but none of the remotes do (or the reverse).
- It grinds, rattles or strains a little more every week.
- It quit after a storm knocked the power out and hasn't been right since.
We test the door before we blame the opener
An opener doesn't lift your garage door. The springs carry its weight, and the opener only pushes and pulls a door that should feel light. So with the door closed, we unhook the opener with the emergency release and lift the door ourselves. A balanced door glides up with little effort and holds still at the halfway mark.
If it's heavy, lifts crooked or slides back down, the trouble is in the springs or cables, and a new opener would struggle the same way. You'll see what we found, and the next step will be spring repair or cable repair, not a new opener.
Opener repairs we make
- Stripped drive gear. The motor runs but the door won't move. Inside, a plastic gear is often worn smooth, and we replace the gear set.
- Circuit board. A power surge or plain age can kill the board that reads signals from your remotes and the wall control.
- Travel and force settings. If the door stops short, won't seal at the floor or reverses as it lands, its limits or force need resetting.
- Chain, belt and trolley. We tighten a slack chain or belt and replace a cracked trolley, the part that rides the rail and holds the door arm.
- Wall control and wiring. Thin wires run from the opener to the wall control and the sensors. One staple through a wire is enough to stop everything.
After any repair we run the reverse test: the door has to reverse when it meets an object on the floor and when an object interrupts the beam of the safety sensors.
When the answer is a new opener
We pick an opener sized for your door's weight and width, hang it from the ceiling framing, and set up the rail, both safety eyes, a wall control and as many remotes as you want to keep. We also pair your car's built-in buttons and the phone app, if the opener has one (remote and keypad programming).
Check one thing before install day: the opener plugs into an outlet on the ceiling. If there isn't one nearby, a licensed electrician will need to add it.
Need a new door instead? Both cities require a permit, and we file it under our license.
Opener questions from Plantation and Davie
A Florida-licensed garage door contractor, like us. That license covers openers and their low-voltage safety wiring.
Usually yes, if the problem is a gear, the board, a setting or the wall control and the motor still runs strong. A new unit is the better buy when parts have been discontinued, the motor has died, or there are no safety eyes down by the floor. Openers made before 1993 may lack the safety reverse federal rules now require. If it's a close call, we write out both options and price each one.
The battery-backup law people often quote is California's; we know of no Florida rule like it. A backup can still be worth it here, since storms cut the power and you may need the car. Without one, the emergency release is how you get the door up by hand.
With the door shut, pull the emergency release, then grip the bottom section with both hands and lift. If it feels very heavy or won't stay up, stop, because a spring may be broken. When the power comes back, close the door and run the opener; on most models the trolley re-latches by itself.
Start with the symptom
Call or text with what you see and hear, plus your ZIP code. Home visits Monday to Saturday. If your door won't close, we come any day to secure it.